Help me design my 40 gallon tank's new layout!

is it a 40g tall 36x12x21 or 40g long 36x12x21 or 40g breeder 36x18x16
First, I need to know your pH and your total wpg of lighting to help you choose plants accordingly...
But I'd recommend doing/getting this stuff First :
[*]I'd recommend a glass canopy for the tank to prevent jumpers
[*]Heater preset to at least 76F (if your backgrounds black get a black one to "hide" it)..if your buying a canister filter then get a hydor inline one (less equipment in the tank means more room for the inhabitants).
[*]Substrate you have already...do a minimum of 2" and if your planning on rooted plants I'd add some flourish tabs beneath the substrate about 1" away from where they are going to go.
[*]Lighting, assuming you have this already?? (need to know twpg if so and bulb type)
[*]Filter (can come after the plants)...do you want an in tank one to hog room, a hang on back one that sometimes can't be customized media wise, or a canister that will sit outside of the tank?
[*]Background (not necessary, but nice)...cheap way is to pick up a can of spray paint such as krylon fusion and spray it...I like the black (easier to hide the equipment ime).
[*]Decor (I know..natural)..Driftwood...malaysian if you want it to sink without mounting it to slate using a galvanized screw. Maybe a mineral stone like what I have for calcium for the shrimp and snails. I can link you to the seller I got mine from (Ebay: livingreefimports) ~Tahitian Mineral Rock ...photos of it can be seen in the 20gL thread.

And 1 question, do the least killifish pose a problem with the cherry shrimp (as in eating them)?
Because if so, you may want to put a divider in place and keep the shrimpys from becoming hunted.

 

ps. after a quick research on the least killifish you may want to section just them due to eating plant matter and crustaceans (your snails and shrimp)>>

 

that's a odd measure for a 40g.

if you can post photos I'm sure we can figure out what equipment you have and help you figure it out.
I take it there's no name on the canister filter?

Ps. Did you swap the wal-mart shop light bulbs to plant appropriate ones (Wal-mart carries them too..I think they are g.e brand). If not you'll want 6700K - 10,000K with 6700K being more ideal, but 10,000K defin. being a more bam in your face bright! Put it on a timer for 10 hours

oh, and still need pH to assist ya with the plants and your twpg (how many bulbs and what wattage is each bulb).

and do we want a highly planted tank...or moderately planted?

 

Why would you have to keep anacharis?

 

Couldn't sleep so I thought I'd give ya some plants to consider...

Plants for the front of the tank:
1)Anubias Pygmy Nana (these guys are tiny ... think thumbnail size)
2)Cryptocoryne wendtii (green/ red should use iron) ... look nice in groups
3)With HIGH light MicroSwords (if you like the grass look)
4)Echinodorus quadricostatus (gives ya spotted grass look...these guys "chain" and will branch out here and there)
5)Dwarf Sagittaria subulata (kinda like #4)
6)Marsilea quadrifolia (a tank full of this would look really nice...think a bit taller 4 leaf clover)
7)WITH HIGH light Hemianthus callitrichoides (might not be what you want, tight and compact...good canopy for the shrimp, but you might not see them often).

Plants for that pop of color:
1) Red Tiger Lotus (can see picts of it in my 90g...not dosing with anything and the plant is keeping the pinkish/red color)
2) Echinodorus Indian Red
3) Ludwigia repens Broad Leaf (get's tall, but has red oval shaped leaves)
4) Rotala wallichii (bushy stem - pinkish/red-orange in color)

If your thinking smallish swords:
1) Parviflorus V. Tropica (love these guys, full-small-bright green and ez)

Something a bit different:
1) Zephyranthes candida (smaller version, onion bulb w/ grass like stalks)
2) Crinum thaianum (larger version of #1)
3) Cladophora aegagropila (moss balls...shrimp love them...good for sucking out the nitrates too...remember to squeeze them out when you do your partials)

Perfect to mount to driftwood/lava rock:
1) Bolbitus heudelotii (no one will eat it)
2) Hemianthus micranthemoides (if you like the clover look)
3) Microsorium pteropus...sorry, never really was a fan of java fern

if you want a visual of these plants you can google images or goto aquariumplants.com

 

Egeria densa (anacharis) are water weeds... good for providing extra oxygen though.

If you have small bunches keep them towards the back where you can let them get somewhat tall -think back corners of the tank...
-or-
if you have enough and really love them you can make a canopy across the back wall of your tank with them-presto...instant background! also, you can use your clippings and replant them to thicken the back canopy to give it a bit of depth/volume

 

once I see a photo, it's quite possible I may be able to help (with the canister that is).
canisters usually are pretty simple...canister (box like) holds the media and contains a magnetic impeller that when powered should spin..and then usually there's an intake and an outake that runs off the top using tubes/hoses. Intake should be sucking the tank water in (should be able to feel slight suction if it's in the tank and you put your hand under it)..outtake should be pouring clean water from the top of the canister back into your tank (water that has already been processed through whatever media is in the canister-clean water).

Try testing it over a bath tub or something such as a rubbermaid that has water in it...that way you can open it and check the impeller to make sure it's seated/spinning. When you plug it in do you hear the motor running?

 

with these measurements, i'm comming up with that your tank is 48.62 gallons.

 

When you are trying to prime it do you have both the intake and the output underwater? Try taking the output out of the water and letting it prime that way.

 

Glad it's running for ya.
Here's a parts breakdown--> http://www.eheim.com/base/eheim/pdf/en/ersatzteile/afilter/2217_classic_GB.pdf

a Petsmart link with info on it

and here's a bit more about it:

 

SUBSTRATE:

A) I'm a HUGE fan of Eco-Complete Planted (the black one being it looks natural, awesome for plants, softbelly safe, doesn't muck with your tank parameters... and you don't rinse it-just toss it in). You can see photos of it in a tank throughout my threads and in Anthony's since he's using it now too.
Usually runs about $20 for a 20lb bag at the petstores in my area.

1) (dtpetsullies) Not sure what they'd charge to ship?
http://www.dtpetsupplies.com/catalog/pr ... ts_id=9655

2) (Petco)They have lots of great coupon codes over the web and are running 15% off and free shipping on $60 or more until the today (22nd) -->
http://www.petco.com/product/111998...-Aquarium-Substrate.aspx?CoreCat=OnSiteSearch

B) (Petco) has this listed..sounds similar to the eco-complete, but not sure as I haven't seen this product in my area yet.
http://www.petco.com/product/111994...=LN_Shopping_FishSupplies_GravelandSubstrates

C) (Google) IF you really want black sand then I'd suggest CaribSea Tahitian Moon Sand (won't muck with tank parameters, soft belly safe, and extremely fine - tightly packed...HOWEVER, it will do nothing to help your plants and it may be difficult to plant into it being it's heavy/tight packing).
You can go here and see a tank I did with the tahitian moon sand for the African Cichlid

http://www.google.com/products?q=CARIBSEA INSTANT AQUARIUM TAHITIAN MOON 20 LB.&oe=UTF-8&scoring=p

D) (SuperCheap Route).. would be a massive bag (I think 50lb) of PeaGravel from Wal-mart which would run you about $5.00
-or- Play Sand (that is silca free) which will run about the same for a large bag
-or- Pool Filter Sand (that is silica free) which will run just under $10 for a large bag
Downfalls of sand...have to be careful not to stir it up (playsand/poolfilter sand) and get it in your filter which will bring it to a grinding halt, a bit harder to vac during partials without sucking it up in your siphon, have to rinse it really really well and even then you'll probably end up with some clouding and unsettled pieces that will need to be netted out before turning your filter on.