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Do It Yourself ODNO Lighting - Cheap High Powered Lighting

Discussion in 'Aquarium Equipment & Decor' started by gsoul55, Sep 4, 2009.

  1. gsoul55

    gsoul55 Thread Starter New Member

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    What is ODNO Lighting?
    ODNO lights are normal fluorescent lights that are rigged to burn brighter than the manufacturer-rated wattage. This allows a hobbyist to inexpensively setup a high-light tank. The setup described below produces approximately 1.75 the normal bulb output. So, a 32 watt bulb, would produce approximately 56 watts. Our light strip will allow for two of these, so we can build a 112 watt light strip for $20-$30, bulbs included.

    What you need

    2 – 2x32Watt ShopLight model HBSL-15 from Home Depot. They must have electronic ballasts. Magnetic ones do not work! This strip has the SunPark SL15 ballast in it.



    2 – T8 bulbs.

    1 - Extension Cord

    1 - On/Off switch

    2 Wire Nuts

    Electrical Tape

    Pliers

    Wire stripper/cutter


    Assembly
    1. Take the cover off of one of the shoplights. Take note of the ballastand the wires running to four endcaps. Now, you need to rewire the light so that the ballast is driving two, instead of four, endcaps. The remaining two will be removed.

    2. Locate the endcap with red and yellow wires attached. Remove the red wire from this endcap. Now remove the remaining yellow wire from both endcaps.


    The technique for removing wires from the endcaps is to grab them with the pair of pliers, close to the base, and to twist the wire and pull STRAIGHT back. Trying to rotate the wire out will result in the end of the wire snapping off.

    3. Plug the red wire into the endcap with blue and yellow wires. Plug it into the socket next to the blue wire, as shown.


    4. Now, locate the two endcaps on the other side of the lightstrip. Take the two red wires from one endcap and plug them into the endcap with two blue wires.



    5. You're done with the mounts and ballast for one of the bulbs. Now, simply remove the ballast from the second light strip, install it in the first strip, and repeat steps 2-4.


    6. Now, we need to connect the ballasts to the extension cord. Cut off the female end of the extension cord. Remove the existing shoplight cord, and pull the new one through the hold in the case. Now, use wire nuts and electrical tape to connect the cable to the ballasts.


    7. This step is optional. To add an on/off switch to the light,simply splice the switch into one of the extension cord's wires. Secure with electrical tape.


    8. The light is now finished. Reassemble, and mount in your hood. If you are not mounting this is in a canapy, make sure that you raise it up so that it has air circulation around the bulbs. These bulbs get hot! We did this with some wood stilts on each end.
    shoplight-box-sm.jpg ballast-sm.jpg redyellowendcap-sm.jpg redyellowblue-sm.jpg blue2red2-sm.jpg finished-sm.jpg cord-sm.jpg switch-sm.jpg ontank-sm.jpg blue2red2-2-sm.jpg
     
  2. stevenrox

    stevenrox New Member

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    intresting....
     
  3. cooltow1

    cooltow1 Member

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    Disclaimer: The following information should be used at your own risk.

    Here a couple of 4x32 ballast you can use to overdrive (2)T-8 from a single ballast
    Advance REL-4P32-SC
    GE B432I120RH
    Sylvania QT 4x32/120 IS-SC

    Rick
     
  4. LemonDiscus

    LemonDiscus Active Member

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    This sounds like a more economical way to overdrive a 2 t8 bulb.... Too bad my 3 ballasts are only 2 bulb.

    What I dont get UNLESS it is the case like me where after 6 T8 bulbs I am out of hood space, why not run 2 sets of lights? That is a true doubling of power.

    But I guess I have a bit of interest in this because I CANNOT get even 1 more light under my hood!

    Has anyone done this? Have you gsoul done this or cooltow? If so, what is the risk to the bulbs? Shortened life? Any electrical hazard to running this?
     
  5. gsoul55

    gsoul55 Thread Starter New Member

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    I have this set-up on 3 of my tanks for about 6 months now and haven't had any issues electrically and haven't noticed any decrease in light output. The bulbs are cheap enough though if they need to be changed once a year. I also paint the fixture black and had the machine shop at my work fabricate some nice mounting legs for me. It definately works awesome though. Big difference in the lighting brightness between the standard light and one with this mod. It looks better than some of my Coralife PC lights that cost $200.
    I am in the process of setting up a fishroom and I will be using this light set-up above all the tanks. Saves a ton of money for me. [laughing]
     
  6. cooltow1

    cooltow1 Member

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    It's a common practice (it is used in most high output aquarium lighting) I figure it out when I was looking for a replacement ballast for a high output T-5 fixture the maker wanted $150 for a OEM ballast the replacement was $30

    Bulbs run hot so life is shorter
    The ballast actually runs cooler because the current is lower


    Rick
     
  7. LemonDiscus

    LemonDiscus Active Member

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    Makes sense

    Well I may go out looking soon for a 4 bulb ballast (well 3 of them :) )
     
  8. blowfishRus6

    blowfishRus6 New Member

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    is the point to run 2 ballast and 2 lights at higher power instead of 4 lights at lower power?? and you do this by only powering 2 light sockets instead of 4 by rerouting the wires correct???

    i tried to modify my 2 ballast 2 light hood. i was a little confused on the process and though the point was to run the the main ac power from the wall to the socket (leaving out the ballast) well yea of course that blew my lights LOL.

    i am confussed about on thing tho, in every modification write up i see, they all remove the on off switch that comes wired in. im a little lost to see why the ballast has to be strait wired in. looking at it, the power goes into the hood, runs over to the on off switch then off to the ballast. so how i see it, its still getting power like that, why the need to remove it?????

    also just so its clear to me, the point is to lessin the bulb out put of the ballast (take it from 4 outlets, down to 2 and run the 4 power sources to the 2 outlets instead of 4 right???)

    so were not actually boosting the output power of the ballast just simply putting all its power into one place right???

    a little confussed on the topic, obviously i blew my lights trying to figure it out [laughing]
     
  9. cooltow1

    cooltow1 Member

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    The idea is to drive a single lamp with a 2 or 4 lamp ballast
    this wiring diagram shows a single lamp driven by a 2 lamp ballast

    Rick
    odnowiringdiagram1.jpg
     
  10. blowfishRus6

    blowfishRus6 New Member

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  11. LemonDiscus

    LemonDiscus Active Member

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    And the switch is optional... it would be wired in before the ballast IF you run one... my switches are timers so I dont have a normal "toggle" or button switch... Thats the ideal switch IMO
     
  12. cooltow1

    cooltow1 Member

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    And just to be redundant it must be an electronic ballast.
    Magnetic inductive ballast do not work in this application.

    Rick
     
  13. blowfishRus6

    blowfishRus6 New Member

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    awesome, thanks guys!!! i think im about to go pick one up right now. be prepared for a few questions later [help]
     
  14. blowfishRus6

    blowfishRus6 New Member

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    what kind of lights to you guys use??? i got a 2 light 32watt set up with the t-8 lights (kitchen lights, thats all they had at walmart in the t-8's) and well just normal with both lights in it, it is BRIGHT, but its kinda like a dull white bright. my other set up was a 20watt dual set up with the plant/aquarium lights. they give off kinda of a pinkish tint but that tint makes the fish colors vibrent. with these lights, there colors look a little duller.

    what other kind of lights can i use?? i saw the plant/aquarium light but it was like an f20, i did not know if i could use it (same length i think) or either maybe i really bright white, not his dull bright white.

    any ideas?? i dont even know if i even need to modify the ballast right now, its pretty bright as is, i even took one of the bulbs out for the time being.
     
  15. LemonDiscus

    LemonDiscus Active Member

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    First off DONT get your bulbs at Walmart (they are actually OVERPRICED!)

    Go to Lowes for bulbs.... (Not Home Depot)... You want T8 DAYLIGHT bulbs (they are in the color spectrum for plants)... Get those kitchen lights off ASAP unless you want an algae outbreak... at that color, the only thing that uses the light is algae.

    Lowes is the cheapest on bulbs for a 2 pack of 4' T8s its around $7 compared to Walmarts $10 and I had issues finding that bulb at Home Depot...

    Home Depot however sells ballasts for HALF the cost you will pay at Lowes...

    It is amazing the difference in prices store to store when you really look.. :)
     
  16. cooltow1

    cooltow1 Member

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    Since almost all my equipment in the fish room was bought used I have every thing from high power compact florescent too just plain old T-12 shop lights

    I just buy the cheapest DAYLIGHT bulbs I can find at Lowes or Home Depot for the compact florescent I buy online.
    One day I will get all my lighting standard but right now I have 5 or 6 different lighting setups running.

    Rick
     
  17. blowfishRus6

    blowfishRus6 New Member

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    yea i really hate these lights and they were 10$ at walmart.

    i had went to home depot to try and find the set up but they dident have that spicific brand and well the guys there looked at me like a i was a complete fool when i told them what i wanted to do with them. the guy finally made me look it up on the internet there at the store (i guess he was trying to call my bluff) and i showed him the write up. after that we went thru pulling all the lights apart and looking at the ballast :D

    the one at home depot was a 2 light set up with one ballast. it had 2 blue wires going to one side, to the 2 different light sockets on that end, then 1 red wire that went the other way and hit one of the light sockets on the oppesite end, then it had a little white wire that crossed over to the other socket on that same side as the red. it was a 2 light, 32watt t-8 bulb set up. (basically what i picked up at walmart for cheaper, lowes was already closed at this time, spent to much time at home depot :/ )

    if i were to modify that, would i just run the 2 blue wires to one socket instead of the 2?? and would i need to do anything special with the red wire or just run it to the same socket that i run my blue ones to??? and what about that little crossover wire?? just do away with it?? or would i take that cross over wire from the right side socket (so to say) and run it into another spot on the right side socket???

    after looking at the lights today there not as bright as they seemed last night.
     
  18. cooltow1

    cooltow1 Member

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  19. cooltow1

    cooltow1 Member

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  20. blowfishRus6

    blowfishRus6 New Member

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    doh. i screwed my self with the hood from wally world. it does not seem to have extra conectors in the sockets to plug the extra wires in. o well. i still have my old hood and it does have the 4 slots on the sockets so i may just buy a 4 light ballast and run it to my 2 lights in it. then run both hoods or something.



    i like the day lights better, but i wish i could modify this hood. the daylights are okay, but i think they would look alot better with more power. maybe it was because i ran the plant/aquarium light so long i just got used to them, but they seemed to make the colors on my fish pop more. is there another light other than the daylights that would work for the aquarium but maybe put out a fresher white?? the daylights kinda have a blue tint to them. i gotta get to my LPS, that guy has some nice set ups and i really like his lighting set ups. the bright white seemed to make everything pop, even the little bubbles in the water looked amazing. i sometimes go there and just stair at his tanks.