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Question about cycling

Discussion in 'Freshwater General Discussion' started by Grimmjow, Oct 14, 2010.

  1. Grimmjow

    Grimmjow Thread Starter New Member

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    Hi everyone I'm new here and have a question. I bought a 36 gallon tank about a month ago and set it all up and added 4 zebra danios to it(wasn't aware of fishless cycling at the time) to kick start the cycle process. I use API master kit to test my waters. After about 3 weeks I was finally starting to read ammonia. Even till this day I still have about 1ppm ammonia and never seen nitrite. Nitrate is at about 20 ppm but my tap water has traces of nitrate in it already. About a week ago I bought a seachem ammonia alert hang inside tank little card reader and it says I have zero ammonia but my API test kit says I have 1ppm. I'm aware the seachem reads only nh3 and the API reads nh3/nh4. Is it possible to have a cycled tank but still have nh4 present? My pH is 6.8. I also have driftwood and some java moss in the tank. A aqua clear 50 and a fluval c3 HOB filter. Am I done cycling or must the API test kid read 0 on both nh3 and nh4 to confirm a full cycle? Thanks guys!

    Oh and yes I do weekly water changes of about 10-20% and I use API stress coat to dechlorinate my water.
     
    Grimmjow, Oct 14, 2010
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  2. Anthony

    Anthony Active Member

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    It shouldn't take 3 weeks to get an ammonia reading when fish are in the tank. With a new setup you should see ammonia within 24 hours.

    This is a liquid test kit you're using right ?

    You should see ammonia, then get a nitrite reading and then get a nitrate reading... In that order unless your water contains nitrates from the beginning.

    Stress Coat dechlorinates ? Does it say that on the bottle ? The API Stress Coat I've seen is just that, a stress coating.
     
    Anthony, Oct 14, 2010
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  3. Grimmjow

    Grimmjow Thread Starter New Member

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    Hi thanks for quick response. Yes it is a liquid test kit. And yes the API stress coat says stress coat removes chlorine and chloramines and detoxifies heavy metal.
     
    Grimmjow, Oct 14, 2010
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  4. Anthony

    Anthony Active Member

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    The API Stress Coat I looked up didn't say it was a dechlorinator. Stress Zyme is on the other hand. I believe you though. [icon_razz.gif]

    I would still pick up a small bottle of Seachem Prime and try to dose the tank with that (Without doing a water change). Wait a few minutes for the water to circulate then test the water and see what the reading is. Now 3 weeks into a new tank it is possible to still have ammonia present because the cycling process isn't complete. You can also try Seachem Stability, which is supposed to contain live beneficial bacteria that will speed up the cycling process. Tetra SafeStart is supposed to be a good product. It used to be called BioSpira and was a refrigerated product and had great results so I've read. I believe Dawn used the SafeStart so she can comment on it when she gets on.
     
    Anthony, Oct 14, 2010
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  5. Grimmjow

    Grimmjow Thread Starter New Member

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    Hehe I believe you got stress zyme and stress coat mixed up :p here is the API site that says stress coat declhorinates http://aquariumpharm.com/Products/Produ ... oductID=43 stess zyme is one of those "bacteria in a bottle" products that probably doesn't work well. Ya I been tempted to use prime, probably gonna wait a little longer and see how this rides out. Hopefully someone can tell me if it's possible to have a cycled tank that still reads nh4. Thanks!
     
    Grimmjow, Oct 14, 2010
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  6. MOD_Dawn

    MOD_Dawn Active Member

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    1st wondering if your reading the color chart correctly (have someone else verify the color your seeing according to the chart)...I have that same test kit (api liquid) and know some of the color differences are barely distinguishable. Could be the reason for 2 different readings from 2 different kits.

    2nd the reading of ammonia is saying your definately NOT cycled or at the very least your going through mini-cycles from the addition of water. I personally use Seachem Prime and dose the entire tanks volume each and every time I add water (evaporation top offs & partials).

    3rd I'd say it definately wouldn't hurt to add a bottle of the appropriate sized Tetra Safestart..I used it when I needed a fry tank to be up and running in less than a day and I never had any issues with the product. It was easy to use and most importantly I didn't lose a single fry.

    4th If the driftwood wasn't pre-rinsed (ie boiled) keep an eye on your pH (besides the release of tannins it can also lower your pH).

    5th Not sure what media you have in the filter, but you might wanna put a bag of Bio-balls/ceramic rings/crushed terra cotta to colonize beneficial bacteria.
     
    MOD_Dawn, Oct 14, 2010
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  7. Grimmjow

    Grimmjow Thread Starter New Member

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    I had my girlfriend and my sister read the color chart and we all agree its a solid yellow for the first 3 weeks, no hint of green what so ever. The reason im thinking of why its different is because the seachem reads only NH3, while the API reads NH3 and NH4 so thats why my seachem is showing non toxic while my API is reading about 1ppm ammonia. But thats just my guess.

    I forgot to mention I added some seeded biomax ceramic rings from an established tank(the tank is newly established im not sure if that matters or not) about a week ago, at the time my ammona readings were 1ppm, and as i am typing this, it still reads 1ppm. and no nitrite.

    I did boil the driftwood to try to get as much tannis out of it. Left it in a bucket full of water for a few days and changing out the water whenever it turned color. Im pretty sure i got 95% of it out. the water was nearly crystal clear.

    In both my filters i only use the sponge filter, and the rest is filled with bio max ceramic rings. I dont use any carbon. anywhere the carbon would go, is replaced with bio max ceramic rings.
     
    Grimmjow, Oct 15, 2010
    #7