1. Welcome to Aquarium Space! We are a friendly online community for aquarium owners all over the world who love their tanks including their fish, reefs, corals, invertebrates and their aquatic livestock. If you haven't joined yet, we invite you to register and join our community!

Acropora

Discussion in 'Saltwater Fish Forum' started by lostanime, Dec 8, 2008.

  1. YellowCichlid

    YellowCichlid New Member

    Messages:
    572
    Likes Received:
    0
    Trophy Points:
    0
    Maybe I'm wrong but I thought nitrates aren't consumed they have to be removed by water changes
     
  2. lostanime

    lostanime Thread Starter New Member

    Messages:
    124
    Likes Received:
    0
    Trophy Points:
    0
    Many forms of algae growth are caused by excess nitrates in water (typically caused by overfeeding, overstocking, and/or poor maintenance) The reason for this is that these algae consume/tie up nitrates. This is the primary reason for adding macro-algae to sumps or refugiums... so that they can effectively compete with nasty micro-algae (such as hair algae) for resources in the water and starve the micro-algae in the main tank.
     
  3. genettico

    genettico New Member

    Messages:
    138
    Likes Received:
    0
    Trophy Points:
    0
    No lostanime! I meant to say you DO still have nitrates! they are just non traceable because the concentrations might be very low or the test kits we use are just not good enough!but we All do Have nitrates! The amount of anaerobic bacteria to compensate for the aerobic one would have to be WAY to great for you to be able to completely eliminate them, and the dynamics of the tank alone will also impede this to happen. On top of it all, Nitrates are needed by almost all living creatures, in low concentrations but nonetheless!

    Nitrates ARE consumed, they just dont get consumed fast enough! The basis of the consumption lies to anaerobic bacteria produce deep within anoxic areas of your aquaria (LR, substrate), which is just isnt enough! When the nitrates get "consumed" they become nitrogen and closes the ALL important Nitrogen cycle we all depend on for our aquaria!
     
  4. genettico

    genettico New Member

    Messages:
    138
    Likes Received:
    0
    Trophy Points:
    0
    I wouldnt say they are being consumed at the same rate! Your nitrates will still creep up on ya! This is ONE of the reasons you DO want to do water changes every so often! The fact you do not read them, might be because you also DO water changes and by the time the NO3 would have come into the range of the tests, you eliminated them! or rather dilluted them, since even the salt you use contains NITRATES! lol!
     
  5. lostanime

    lostanime Thread Starter New Member

    Messages:
    124
    Likes Received:
    0
    Trophy Points:
    0
    I've never said I dont have any nitrates...what's the point of DSBs & macros if not to continually lower nitrates? And as a quick heads up - my nitrates were at 40ppm with weekly water changes until a couple months back when i added DSB and macro-algae, and removed bio-balls. Every week nitrates dropped by 10ppm until they were no longer measurable - despite no water changes for that month (mainly because I was curious how low they would go without intervention... i water changed after they stopped registering).... if DSBs and macro-algae aren't converting/consuming nitrates at least at the rate that they are building up in the tank, how were my nitrate levels steadily dropping for a month straight?
     
  6. genettico

    genettico New Member

    Messages:
    138
    Likes Received:
    0
    Trophy Points:
    0
    lol! I didnt say you said you didnt have nitrates !lol!
    The point of having refuges, containing macros with DSB are many, like to introduce beneficial micro-fauna/flora and food for the pods you are trying to raise in there.... which is another reason (Refugium/pods), another one is to create an area in which plant matter (any for this purpose), will as you said compete for nutrients in the water. Yes, one of them is to SLOW down the amount of NO3 build up, by creating large amount of anaerobic bacteria in your DSB,not to lower it,(you can make it so that it LOWERS it though, im not saying is impossible) but to slow down it's growth! Unless you have a DSB in your main display with over 6 inches of fine sand, and the rest of it is covered with LR and you have very low flow thruought your tank, and you only feed one fish, I would not believe your NO3 was reduced to none in 4 weeks time! from 40ppm in a 125g tank! It just does not add up! But hey... what do I know? If you say your NO3 went down like they did, so they did! Good for you! Nice results! unless your test led you to believe something wrong!
    It is not that you can't make enough bacteria to deal with the NO3 as fast as it is produced, it is that the amount of Anoxic areas that you would have to have would mean you have to have 2/3 of the bacteria in your tank be anaerobic,(proportion needed to displace the NO3) which means that the chemistry in your aquaria would be very different to what we have, and it would not be different in a good way! Plus nevermind the high risk of hydrogen sulfide buildup on the DSB and "leaking" back into your tank's water column!
     
  7. lostanime

    lostanime Thread Starter New Member

    Messages:
    124
    Likes Received:
    0
    Trophy Points:
    0
    i didn't believe it would work until i tried it. I was close to giving up on attempting corals because nothing I wanted would tolerate 40+ppm nitrates and I didn't have time to do water changes more then weekly.

    one of the kids majoring in marine biology at LFS mentioned he scrapped the sump on the 220gal @ VCU they do studies on once he inherited maintenance and set up a fuge with chaeto and that the levels dropped off within weeks. i figured he was trying to sell me on buying more gear... but i had already just connected the 75 with HOB overflow (with the intentions of setting it up as a dedicated specimen container)... couldn't decide what to put in it so I dumped a ridiculous amount of aragonite & a handful of chaeto, removed the spouts so the 1' PVC just dumped directly in the 75gal (pointed sideways, to minimize current that would introduce O2 into DSB) and it just took off like crazy. One thing to note - I'm having to take handfuls of macro-algae out of the refugium weekly now (which I'm OK with since hair-algae in the main tank has mostly stopped growing and the critters are slowly eating it away)
     
  8. lostanime

    lostanime Thread Starter New Member

    Messages:
    124
    Likes Received:
    0
    Trophy Points:
    0
    and to make it even harder to believe... it's a 180g with very minimal live rock, and a 75g with modest live rock, and a bare 40g half full... it's alot of water (and thus-alot of nitrates)

    The kid also suggested that my nitrate problem could be due to detritus caught in bioballs breaking down and fueling nitrates at the rate i'm removing through water changes... but that doesn't make sense to me since they dropped during a period of no water changes. I'm not going to definitively say the DSB/macro drastically lowered the nitrates (despite that being my reason for adding)... but something had to lower them - my wife's too far along in the pregnancy to be doing water changes behind my back to screw with my head :)
     
  9. genettico

    genettico New Member

    Messages:
    138
    Likes Received:
    0
    Trophy Points:
    0
    Wow... Im glad I didnt go to VCU lol! I went to FSU! ;) And which corals exactly are you referring to? Nitrates by themselves are non toxic unless you get in levels past 80ppm and the Alk and Ph are helping!
     
  10. lostanime

    lostanime Thread Starter New Member

    Messages:
    124
    Likes Received:
    0
    Trophy Points:
    0
    LOL... cold man, cold :) (Not that I can take too much offense... I had no idea they even had marine biology, I was a computer sciences geek)

    That's an excellent question (re what corals)... during one of the long evenings of acropora research, I thought I had pulled information from wetweb regarding pristine water conditions being required, but I cant for the life of me find the information again. Since your obviously not having any problems with your acros... "the proof is in the pudding"... they must tolerate nitrates much more then I understood them to!
     
  11. genettico

    genettico New Member

    Messages:
    138
    Likes Received:
    0
    Trophy Points:
    0
    lol! Marine Sciences with Oceanography! haha!
    I wasnt being offensive, but rather, defensive! lol! not really defensive!
    And as far as my corals, I dont have but 15 to 20ppm on nitrates in my tank at one given point! Myself, just like you, and almost anybody else, dont like to take un-necessary risks! lol! You are doing what you should be doing, and your research and reading has proven to be great since you seem to have enough usable great info, and know how to use it for your tank. This is very difficult, and I admire people that can just read something, understand it, and apply it without much help or direction. You are doing fine! You can help me a little with computers and programming, I can help you a little bit with reef aquaria..... see? is a win win!lol keep reefing...
     
  12. lostanime

    lostanime Thread Starter New Member

    Messages:
    124
    Likes Received:
    0
    Trophy Points:
    0
    Hey, I'm always up for advice and new perspectives and I hopefully come across appreciative (which I am!) this thread wouldn't have started otherwise.

    I finally was able to dig up the wetweb article regarding water conditions for acroporids: <a class="postlink" href="http://www.wetwebmedia.com/acropt3.htm" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;">http://www.wetwebmedia.com/acropt3.htm</a>

    That article mentions <10ppm... which is what really intimidated me into the mindset that I needed to tinker and try things until I drove mine lower (it's amazing what people do before anyone tells them they cant!)

    I do respect Bob's input, but I'm not saying it's 100% right (after all... rarely do our fish and corals read the same books we do regarding their expected behaviors!)
     
  13. genettico

    genettico New Member

    Messages:
    138
    Likes Received:
    0
    Trophy Points:
    0
    Mr Fenner is great ! His advice on reef aquaria has helped 1000's of people. I only have but admiration for him. I have met him a couple times in conferences, and he is as nice in person as he is in threads and on his site. His articles and advice are based on facts, but sometimes he has to write them carefully to suit the "masses". He will always give advice to what is SAFEST and more practical. It is safest and more practical to not have n03, and for practical purposes and the well being of inhabitants in our aquaria I wouldnt tell people to have more than 10-15ppm on them. You can have them, but if you mess up on your ph or alk, so the nitrates DO become a problem.... so best to avoid and have them within a good margin that allows for error! ;)
     
  14. lostanime

    lostanime Thread Starter New Member

    Messages:
    124
    Likes Received:
    0
    Trophy Points:
    0
    I've gotten sign-off from spouse to go kalkwasser... but my anal retentive fears of water shifts (and my strong desire to stop manually topping off daily) has me looking at getting a very large tupperware style trash can or bin, mixing the kalk with RO/DI, and using a float valve and gravity-feeding to sump.

    I have 5+ gallons evaporating daily, so I'm seeing the following benefits takign this plunge:

    - maintain salinity (although to be honest, the system is so big that salinity doesn't shift in a measurable amount adding 10 gallons of RO DI... more peace of mind)
    - maintain calcium (and can adjust how much kalk i mix with each batch to make sure i'm not dosing too much/too little... i'm pretty sure i dont need to add 5 gallons of completely saturated kalk daily...!)
    - maintain budget - kalkwasser appears to be a much cheaper alternative to suppliments intended to be dosed. The only cheaper long-term option I see is a calcium reactor, which initial cost makes prohibitive
    - maintain laziness. I am SICK of adding 5 gallons daily & dosing daily (and the risk of the pumps burning out if I dont do so).. I'd much rather fill a large container and mix once each weekend.

    Any warnings?