Any advice on setting up a Saltwater tank?

The holes are likely for a sump. If you search the forum (search link is at the top of the forum) you will find information on sumps.

I suggest looking through the saltwater section at various threads to see what you can learn from those. Also look under the Knowledge Base section and you'll see a thread about Saltwater/Reef Water Parameters.

 

well lets start off....150$ is a STEAL! lol you can clean it with vinegar and scrub it a little use hose to blast out the sand if you want and the holes are for sump but looks like he has a canister filter and all the tubing but no pics of sump so he probally could have just hooked it up to the canister filters wait nvm just looked at the last pic and is that a "back pack sump" (correct name?) well thats just a simpler version in stead of going under the stand it filters right there but it means less tank space theirs a lot of threads on how to get it to work dawn should be posting tons of links in no time GL keep us updated and ask if you have any questions

 

Can't help with the sump...never ran one. (from what I've been told though you can stick just about all your equipment in there if you have a big enough one...ie. heaters, uv, etc).

Looks like they gave you all the equipment you need to get it up and running (good thing).

Your checklist would be Stand, Tank, Heater, Thermometer with digital probe being best, Filtration system, Sump since your tank is drilled (can't help with the tubing/attachments on it...just know it runs somehow from the drilled portion down to the sump), Uv sterilizer, Protein Skimmer, Power heads for circulation & or wavemaker, light fixture (high wattage if doing corals...acitinic light in the mix beneficial), timers (for items such as lighting), Grounded circuit protected power strip/power strips, substrate such as live sand (layered) & live rock, Hydrometer to measure salinity, Special Salt to pre-mix with water, Ro/di System being EXTREMELY helpful to "make" your water safe, Liquid saltwater test kit (api has one If I remember right), Turkey Baster (good for if you get cyanobacteria), food specific for the inhabitants with live or frozen being optimal (warning:some flakes will cause phosphate problems), and with the prices of saltwater specimens I'd definately set up something like a 10g quarantine and let that tank cycle properly & go VERY slowly and not rush the process or you'll be very sorry very fast!

Saltwater can be great and gorgeous, but theirs alot more maintenance that goes into them and its defin. more time consuming imo (had one a while back).

As for how to clean the equipment and what nots that came with it this link should prove most helpful for ya!

Cleaning Equipment - Saltwater Aquariums

 

the canisters filter you can hook up to uv sterilizer and back in the sump for better filteration

 

1)Clean the tank and equipment...check the link I gave you.
2)run yourself a tub of water and test all the equipment BEFORE running it onto/behind/beneath your tank where a nightmare could occur.
-->Run the canister into the tub and make sure theirs no leaks, rumbly roars that shouldn't be, etc...no media will be needed for a test run.
-->Toss the heater in IF it's submersible and make sure it gets warm (can stick a probe in there if you want to be super technical).
-->Take the tank outside or somewhere that if it leaks you won't damage anything...fill it with water and do a "wet" run to make sure it holds water over night. I'm pretty sure you won't want to chance a flood....if it holds your golden, but still check it over for cracks and seamwork.
-->Check you uv installation instructions or check online for a manufacture site that should provide instructions on how to properly hook it up. Some require additional add on pieces that aren't included...and most will need plumbers tape to create a water tight seal! The bulbs on them typically last a year, so if you know the bulb is ancient I'd replace it and start with a fresh one...same goes with your light fixtures bulbs (they say you should be able to get 6 months from power compacts before the light degrades...some will say differently of course).

-->>>>>A NOTE FOR THE Uv should be connected to your water flow outlet hose to the Uv sterilizers INLET Barb...sidenote...never turn off the canister filter once the UV is hooked up without turning off the UV sterilizer FIRST!!!

Once you've cleaned and done your dry runs/ wet runs (man that doesn't sound good..haha) Then you can start putting things in place. Properly cleaned and you have the choice of using it for salt or freshwater (choose wisely grasshopper).

Put the stand somewhere that you won't have draft issues or excess lighting issues that will defin. cause problematic algae. Make sure to leave enough space to access/place all your equipment...and now you will be working by it often doing partials and testings...so make it convenient (ie. close/within reach to sink or door if your doing the manual bucket method). You'll want room for storing chemicals, test kits, nets, salt, blah blah blah...so plan that out too! I know I hate running up and down the cellar steps everytime I need something!!!

Figure out how many plugs you will have and how many timers you will be utilizing...Then purchase a heavy duty power strip that will easily reach your equipment (remember more times than not the timers hog the strip so you may need 2 or some heavy duty extension plugs with a possible adapter.)

I also recommend getting yourself some of those velcro plug straps so you can roll them up rather than having miles of plugs everywhere...and you may want to think of picking up some of them sealed luggage tags that you can mark and zip to the plug. You'd be amazed how quickly you'll forget which plug goes to what (and when doing partials some things may need to be unplugges due to the water level drop).

Place the tank on the stand, put the equipment where it will be (ie, back of tank, sump, etc)...mount your power strip/strips in place...fill with substrate (plate method works nice to keep disturbance down...clarity will speed the clearing process)...fill with water at a temperature just a degree or so below what you intend on keeping the tank at...allow the tank to settle for 24-48hours with just the heater running to keep it at optimum temperature. Once it has properly settled you can turn on your filtration (why wait, becuse you don't want that sediment jamming your equipment up). Just after you turn the caniser on You'll want to follow suit by turning on the uv sterilizer and get that up and running.

this will give you a starting point!

 

*Bows* Thank You! (I think?) Lol!

 

i want a prize for slowest typer in norcal!

 

Lol @ Steven...(hands him a prized Red Gummy Bear Candy).

 

i want a green one though!

 

Picky Picky...The greens are all gone (sarris Bucket of them). Your stuck with red until I get back out. Lol!

 

can i get a orange im allergic to red

 

It's in your mind...but here ((Chucks a few orange ones in Steven's Direction)).

 

awesome

 

Sounds good! Slow is defin the way to go with the saltwater....to expensive to make rush mistakes--You'll understand my point once your up and running for a while.


Good Luck with it all!
~Dawn