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What equipment will i need for a larger tank?

Discussion in 'Saltwater Fish Forum' started by California Cowgirl, Jun 6, 2009.

  1. California Cowgirl

    California Cowgirl Thread Starter New Member

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    Ok and when i do get my light it will be a while until I put anything in the tank as we are waiting to hear when our house will be tented and also after the tenting the tank will be cycling for6 weeks anyways so at least I will have time to adjust all the equipment before my puffer goes in :D
     
  2. California Cowgirl

    California Cowgirl Thread Starter New Member

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    so i joined a forum that's pretty much all about puffers, and for the equipment on the new tank someone said that if i have a skimmer that it would be best not to use a power filter, and the filter will create high nitrates, which means more water changes, which means a lot more salt and money.

    Is this true or should i still get the filter.
     
  3. Anthony

    Anthony Active Member

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    That's not true. Some people claim that canister/power filters are "nitrate factories". As long as you clean your filter nitrates don't have a chance to build up.
     
  4. California Cowgirl

    California Cowgirl Thread Starter New Member

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    ok and i always clean my filters anyways so that shouldnt be a problem
     
  5. Anthony

    Anthony Active Member

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    Protein Skimmers remove dissolve organics (what causes nitrates). :roll:

    How dare you join a puffer forum ! LoL j/k
     
  6. California Cowgirl

    California Cowgirl Thread Starter New Member

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    hahahahah lol this one is my main forum :D i'm also on a herp forum as well, but to be honest this one is tons better than the others
     
  7. California Cowgirl

    California Cowgirl Thread Starter New Member

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    oh also for the metal halide lighting should the 150w be ok because i'm afraid that the 250w would get to hot for the tank and if that were to happen i don't know what i would do as i wouldn't be able to afford to get a chiller as those things are frekin expensive
     
  8. Anthony

    Anthony Active Member

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    The 150 should work. I would do the 250 and worry about heat later but that's just me. LoL
     
  9. California Cowgirl

    California Cowgirl Thread Starter New Member

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    well maybe i'll be able to get the 250w i saw a chiller for $329 no idea if it's good or not but it's this one here could be a future investment
     
  10. Anthony

    Anthony Active Member

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    I can't tell you much about chiller brands but it got good ratings.
     
  11. California Cowgirl

    California Cowgirl Thread Starter New Member

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    ya if i have to end up getting a chiller i'll probably look into that one especially cause there is no possible way that i can afford anything over $400 and like the ligthing alone is really pushing it with being over $400 and that's including shipping so i expect it to be mid to upper $500
     
  12. lostanime

    lostanime New Member

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    But power filters trap (some) organics, letting them rot into ammonia/nitrite/nitrate which prevents the protein skimmer from effectively doing its job...
     
  13. lostanime

    lostanime New Member

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    Totally your call, but I would personally veer strongly against 250s on a tank under 75 gallons unless your aiming for an acro/crocea tank. That's enough light to bleach and kill most corals, uses much more power, costs more, it's much more heat, and may increase evaporation (plus need for chiller that you otherwise wouldn't have to pay for)... maybe I'm missing something but I don't understand what your planning to keep that would benefit from those lights. We run two 150w HQIs on our 180 gallon tank most of time, and just fire up the 250s on that huge tank for 6 hours each day to light the photosynthetic corals 26 inches below the surface.
     
  14. California Cowgirl

    California Cowgirl Thread Starter New Member

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    well i'm going to start out with just live rock and if all goes well i would like to try some easy beginner corals that's cheap *in case he eats them* like some green star polyps, so then the 150w would be ok?
     
  15. Anthony

    Anthony Active Member

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    If you're cleaning your filter like you should that doesn't happen. Every filter traps organics, that's the purpose of a filter.
     
  16. lostanime

    lostanime New Member

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    150 watt bulbs will have plenty of penetration on that tank, and you'll still get that really cool shimmering effect :)
     
  17. lostanime

    lostanime New Member

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    That's the intended purpose only of a mechanical filter, not biological/chemical filters. Biological filters are there to convert ammonia->nitrite->nitrate, and chemical filters are there to neutralize various chemical buildups within the water.

    Since skimmers do an extremely effective job of not only trapping organics, but removing them from the water column entirely, I'd hate to put another form of filtration in place that would trap organics within the water column where they will rot and break down until the aquarist does maintenance on that filter. A protein skimmer only helps remove protein, not the nitrates that organics will turn into if trapped in a power filter. I understand that's an unfortunate compromise with freshwater setups since they can't run skimmers, but why bother with the extra headache and unnecessary work on a saltwater tank?
     
  18. Anthony

    Anthony Active Member

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    I have seem very few people that only run protein skimmers on their saltwater tanks. Most run sumps with bioballs and a prefilter pad.

    Again, if you're cleaning your filter every 2 weeks nitrates don't have time to build up to an unsafe level.
     
  19. lostanime

    lostanime New Member

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    Totally agree - if your willing to keep up with maintenance and water changes, any mainstream form of filtration will work. Heck, even under gravel filters work great as long as you frequently maintain them. One big upside is if you use power filters, bioballs, etc you can overstock your aquarium with fish without necessarily causing a crash. The downside are the nitrates slowly but steadily creeping up, requiring water changes (this isn't necessarily a big "negative" since, in my opinion, we should all be doing water changes regardless)

    The local fish stores here condemn bio-balls and the like (Marv, the owner of Atlantis Aquariums was the one that advised me on how to remove the bio-balls from my setup... they are heavy into using skimming and chaeto, Joe, the owner of Fish World also strongly recommends heavy skimming and uses deep sand beds and blade grass, and over the last few years has been in the process of migrating bioballs out of many of their setups)

    I've known many people running combinations of prefilters, phosphate reactors, denitrifiers, UV, ozonizers, bioballs, live rock, etc with great success with frequent maintenance, but I've also known people employing berlin style setups (primarily live rock, sand, and skimmers for filtration) that have had success for years without the need to frequently rinse and/or replace any filter media other then carbon. Again, this method can prevent issues with nitrates rising but requires understocking a tank.

    I hope I'm not coming across argumentative, just trying to add another perspective that although there are many tanks successfully using pre filters, bioballs, and power filters (and need them due to how filtration was implemented for the tanks), there are many out there running successfully without them and they aren't necessarily "required" and under certain circumstances could cause more issues then they solve. If you are planning to use alot of live rock and a skimmer, it's certainly worth the time to look up "berlin filtration system"...

    Here's a link with a brief overview: http://saltaquarium.about.com/od/liverockberlinsetups/a/aa052504berlin.htm
     
  20. California Cowgirl

    California Cowgirl Thread Starter New Member

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    awesome thanks for all the info, i will probably plan on ordering the equipment tomorrow, but i will order the lights sometime later. And i'll probably stick with the filter/protein skimmer method as puffers are known for for being very dirty fish.

    Today i cleaned his tank and before i cleaned it i decided to test the water paremeters *sp* since i haven't done it in a long time and i want to get used to the fact of doing the water test each time i clean the tank for the new tank.

    Here is what the results read:
    Temp: 75-82 F
    PH: 8.6
    Nitrate 3: 5.0
    Alkalinity: 2.9-3.6
    Amonia between: 0-0.25
    Nitrite: 0.05
    Hydrometer: 1.017

    I have been noticing a lot of salt build up on all of my equipment, including stuff that doesn't even touch the water, like the back of my protein skimmer, i get it on the tank lid and filter as well.

    When i took the reading about 2 gallons of water had evaporated since the water change last week, so i took 2 more gallons out. Then added 4 gallons of water back to the tank and i added more salt.

    I plan to do another water test tomorrow.